Throughout a two-year period amid the Gaza war, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is where Christians believe Jesus was born.
But, after a recent truce, the holy city determined that this year celebrations would return, as symbolised by the lighting of its traditional, large holiday tree before the historic Nativity Church.
"We have endured a bad two years without celebration; no Christmas, no employment, no income," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and tourism had fallen to zero."
The mayor accepts that the decision of resuming celebrations faced some controversy, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza – which affects those in its tiny Christian community, many of whom have family ties to Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate while others contend it is fitting," the mayor notes. "However, in my heart, I believed this constituted the correct action to do since the Christmas season should never be halted or abandoned. This is a beacon of hope for us."
Residents – both Christians and Muslims – take photographs before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of foreign tourists.
Vibrant lights now decorate city streets with signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children's parties.
"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," comments Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey a message to the world about what Christmas truly should be about. And now, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will bring a positive message for the entire world."
The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Hotels – which have remained largely empty for two years – have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think everyone needs to come at least once during their lifetime," she says.
"I wish many visitors will return soon because it's sad with few tourists. The sole aspect that's good is you don't have lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. On my prior visit you had to wait in line for hours at least."
Currently, the souvenir stores scattered throughout the city experience scant trade, and outside the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the Fourth Century, guides largely stand idle. Before the Gaza war, it was often crammed with visitors.
"Bethlehem is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no life," expresses one guide Hamza. "We aspire to see individuals coming back like before: from European nations, the Middle East, America, Latin America and all over. We begin with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."
Over the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Since the lethal Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the conflict, many thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received just a portion of their salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The PA depends on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says it is holding these funds due to the fact that the Authority provides financial payments to incarcerated Palestinians that incentivise violence against Israelis. The authority – facing international pressure to enact reforms – says it has recently changed its social welfare system.
The grim economic outlook implies that for many Palestinian Christians, despite the fact that there are currently public events in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.
At the edge of the square, some patrons are waiting to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday following one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as Christians," states Alaa Salameh, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family restaurant that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He says that recently numerous families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but based on their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or the theatre or whatever, they lack the funds to spend on these celebrations."
Within the grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a resident follows a tour group from India, bending down by a silver star that indicates the location where tradition states that Jesus was born and igniting a light nearby.
With tensions still high throughout the area, people in Bethlehem say they are hoping for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the place where it is believed where Christmas started.
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