All Cook Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.